I recently wrote an article about fly fishing rods. I wanted to
continue to discuss fly fishing rods as a lot of largemouth bass
fishermen also like to fly fish. Since flies for fly fishing are a lot
lighter than lures for bass, fly rods typically are lighter and not as
sturdy. For example, the average rod for fly fishing is 7 to 8 foot rod.
However, a river 45 feet wide might well call for a rod of between 8
and 10 feet. But if you want to limit yourself to only one rod for all
types of fly fishing, including salmon, sea trout and trout, you should
choose a medium-action 10-footer.
If you want to fish on still waters, you have to decide whether you will spend the bulk of the time fishing from a boat or wading along the shore line: boat rods can be slightly less substantial than bank ones.
Ideally, you should have access to a more powerful 9 1/2- or 10-foot rod for bank fishing, but you should avoid those over-stiff devices that need the strength of a gorilla to flex them properly. They may be fine for the tournament caster who wants to throw a line into the next county, and who will only use it for a five-minute session anyway, but they are not nice for prolonged fishing. Also bear in mind that the stronger and stiffer the rod, the stronger your leader will have to be to avoid breakage on the strike.
If you are fishing a river for brown trout, trout rods range from the little 6-foot brook rods up to the 17 -foot models for fishing still waters and large rivers.
Unlike rods for largemouth bass, with all singlehanded rods it’s preferable to have the reel fittings near the butt. Various fitments are available, and those that are the lightest are usually the best. Screw fittings offer greater security than those with a friction hold, although you’re unlikely to have a reel fall off whichever type you choose.
Despite the great variety of rod actions to suit different fishing situations, to some extent there is room for personal preference. It is usually said that a slightly stiffer-actioned rod is better for dry-fly fishing, and a soft-actioned rod is better for wet flies. But beware of a rod that is truly limp; these might be able to handle very light lines in calm conditions, but they often lack the stamina to cope with contrary winds and longer-than-average casts. Even though a fly rod shouldn’t have too soft an action, when it’s flexed it should have a good all-through action down into the butt. Tip-actioned rods with stiff butt sections may work well with lures for bass, but they have little use in fly fishing.
If you can afford it, get a rod in graphite by one of the more reputable manufacturers. There is much dumping of foreign overproduction and these rods, while exceptionally cheap, may not represent very good value.
If you want to fish on still waters, you have to decide whether you will spend the bulk of the time fishing from a boat or wading along the shore line: boat rods can be slightly less substantial than bank ones.
Ideally, you should have access to a more powerful 9 1/2- or 10-foot rod for bank fishing, but you should avoid those over-stiff devices that need the strength of a gorilla to flex them properly. They may be fine for the tournament caster who wants to throw a line into the next county, and who will only use it for a five-minute session anyway, but they are not nice for prolonged fishing. Also bear in mind that the stronger and stiffer the rod, the stronger your leader will have to be to avoid breakage on the strike.
If you are fishing a river for brown trout, trout rods range from the little 6-foot brook rods up to the 17 -foot models for fishing still waters and large rivers.
Unlike rods for largemouth bass, with all singlehanded rods it’s preferable to have the reel fittings near the butt. Various fitments are available, and those that are the lightest are usually the best. Screw fittings offer greater security than those with a friction hold, although you’re unlikely to have a reel fall off whichever type you choose.
Despite the great variety of rod actions to suit different fishing situations, to some extent there is room for personal preference. It is usually said that a slightly stiffer-actioned rod is better for dry-fly fishing, and a soft-actioned rod is better for wet flies. But beware of a rod that is truly limp; these might be able to handle very light lines in calm conditions, but they often lack the stamina to cope with contrary winds and longer-than-average casts. Even though a fly rod shouldn’t have too soft an action, when it’s flexed it should have a good all-through action down into the butt. Tip-actioned rods with stiff butt sections may work well with lures for bass, but they have little use in fly fishing.
If you can afford it, get a rod in graphite by one of the more reputable manufacturers. There is much dumping of foreign overproduction and these rods, while exceptionally cheap, may not represent very good value.
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